Dr Caroline Gilby MW is a widely published wine writer, award-winning author and consultant specialising in the wines of Central and Eastern Europe. Together with István Balassa, the respected Tokaj winemaker she will host the masterclass „Furmint – the thousand faced variety” at the Hungarian Wine Summit. One of the questions we have asked her in our interview was about the prospects of Furmint.
You’ve been a long time follower of Hungarian wine. In your opinion what makes Hungarian wines worthy of the attention of foreign customers?
Diversity – there’s something for everyone with such a huge range of grapes and different growing regions. Quality – modern Hungarian winemaking is resulting in some fantastic wines that deserve a place in anyone’s glass. Some amazing human stories and great people in the world of Hungarian wine too – very generous in sharing their wines and their hospitality.
You are to give a presentation on Furmint at the Hungarian Wine Summit with Tokaj winemaker István Balassa. How do you see the role of Furmint in Hungarian wine?
I see it as a really important story to help put Hungary back on the world wine map. It can deliver fantastic wines in so many styles from fine sparkling and complex dry wines to some of the world’s greatest sweet wines, and it can truly reflect the place it’s grown. Oh and it’s delicious – I have sparkling Furmint in my glass right now.
If you were to single out one Furmint that you have particularly fond memories of, which one would it be?
So many amazing wines to choose from – but I’m going to have to go for the legendary Úrágya 2000 tasted with István Szepsy in his cellar years ago. This was the wine that arguably kick-started the new era of high quality dry wines and it was a privilege to taste it.
What do you think are the challenges Hungarian Furmint producers still need to tackle?
I think producers are largely going in a good direction – making wines that are more elegant and with better, more subtle oak use. But they must not stop progressing and learning about the best ways to make dry wines and understanding all the different dűlő and even differences
within plots. I think the vineyard classifications from history probably need revisiting – for today’s warmer era and because it’s not necessarily the same plots that are good for sweet wines and dry ones.
You are going to visit Hungary this spring. Is there something you’re particularly looking forward to?
I’m actually looking forward to going to Matra – I haven’t been here since the early 1990s when I used to buy wine from the region for a major British wine shop and pub group. And of course catching up with wine friends and their latest vintages.